Topography of confrontation between Novgorod and Lithuania in the age of Alexander

The role of Lithuanian tribes that would later establish their own powerful sovereignty was continuously increasing in the first half of the 13th century. This would lead to more frequent conflicts with the neighbours. The Order of the Brothers of the Sword was the primary opponent of the Lithuanians in those days, and it is notable that the friars were not always successful in this confrontation. The Battle of Saule ended in their total defeat (1236). A year later, the Brothers of the Sword merged with the Teutonic Order, which facilitated further Catholic expansion in the East.

As for the Lithuanians, this victory enhanced their capacity, so that Rus’ had to consider the continuously increasing risk of raids: as early as in 1239, Smolensk was temporarily captured during one of these raids. For protection of Western boundaries, several fortresses were built along the Shelon river, that performed the function of a natural barrier for the capital on the Volkhov: «Prince Alexander and Novgorodians erected fortresses on the Shelon».

Although these fortifications had not been intended as permanent, the history of Porkhov, one of them, was fortunate, and it still exists as an administrative district center of Pskov Oblast. Another example is Gorodok fortress (several kilometres of very poor road from Soltsy towards Dno) which has survived only sliding earthwork ruins on an elevation and a memorial cross installed by the community of the neighbouring village.

Porkhov hillfort

Lithuania resumed attacking Novgorod after Alexander’s battles against Swedes and Germans (1240–1242). No defeat of Novgorod in any of battles against Lithuania would have impaired the Novgorodian sovereignty, since the invaders were mostly interest in brigandage. However, even in this situation the degree of disturbance was significant, as it affected the people.

The chronicle reports that the Lithuanians captured horses and people in Torzhok area (now Tver Oblast). This raid must have been rather substantial, as Torzhok (first reference in the chronicle dated 1139, although archaeological evidence is available that it had been a strategic point on the waterway from Upper Volga area (accordingly, Suzdalian land) to Novgorod long before that date, i.e., in the 11th or even 10th century).

Torzhok, ramparts of the ancient fortress

A pursuit that that had been launched reached the Lithuanians near Toropets and frayed them severely, although for the determined attack and release of the captives Alexander’s intervention was required. Yaroslavich and his troop reached the enemies and defeated them under Zhizhets and Usvyat.

The former of these settlements located on a busy trade route across Lake Zhizhitskoye is now just a derelict site in the south-eastern part of Pskovian land. The latter was more fortunate, as today it has the status of a district center, similarly to Porkhov.

We would not take the liberty of recommending to cover all the sites related to the events of 1245 in a single trip due to the poor condition and length of the roads connecting the remote areas of the neighbouring areas (all these roads are winding and lengthy). It would be better to plan transiting these sites in several trips.

Torzhok is the most convenient place to visit, as it located on a major transport artery — М10 highway («Russia»). Only the layout and fragments of the magnificent ramparts of the 13th century fortress have survived in this town. Their height helps to understand how the sieged inhabitants were able to resist the attacks of a Mongolian troops for a fortnight in 1238.

Toropets deserves a dedicated visit that may take several days. The town’s close relation of the life of Alexander Nevsky is particularly important. In the 13th century, the territory of the town was limited to the so-called Small Fortress located within the boundaries of the existing town. It was here that the prince’s mother spent her early life (assuming the version that her father was Mstislav Mstislavich the Daring), Alexander married a daughter of Bryacheslav, Prince of Polotsk, and battles against Lithuanian troops took place in 1245.

Toropetskiy settlement — ancient Toropets

The distance from Toropets to Zhizhets fortress is about 60 kilometres. A navigator may be of little help in finding the site. Zaluchye village (Kunyinsky district of Pskov Oblast) near Lake Zhizhitskoye (south of route M-9 («Baltic Highway») will be a good landmark. Once there, proceed to the along a deserted promontory protruding into the lake for a few hundred meters. It is there that very picturesque hill that used to be Zhizhets fortress is located.

Zhizhets fortress

A trip to Usvyaty, the site of the old Usvyat fortress, is more complicated, as it is situated in a limited border area and is accessible only by a toll road from Usvyaty to Neval (nor alternative access to this district centre of Pskov Oblast is available). If you plan a short visit there and drive from Velizh (several kilometres), you will have to pay the toll twice: on entry to and exit from the checkpoint. It is better to plan a transit trip there and drive along this toll road just one way. Castle hill is the most popular attraction in Usvyaty, although in the 13th century the settlement was situated in a different place known among the locals as Yuryevy Gory.

Usvyaty, the ancient settlement

Similarly to Zhizhets, the picturesque terrain is the only memory of the battles of Alexander Nevsky that took place in the ancient times.

R. A. Sokolov

Tags: routes, 13 century, By the route of Alexander Nevsky: Battle on the Ice, Battle on the Ice, North-West Russia, Novgorodian Land, Pskovian Land